Africa needs a new Design Lexicon

Words have power. So much so that they can create and end wars, they convert single people to married people often in the simplest of phrases: “I do”. The words on this page are currently making you think about something that you may not have intended to think

about before. The words we use help mould and communicate ideas and experiences, they can shape perceptions and convey emotions that can either evoke unity or discord, sow peace or turmoil, and affirm or deny dignity.

How we speak about Africa, her people and what we make, is also a powerful tool that can and is shaping what African design is, what it isn’t, and how it is and has been perceived to be through the ages.

Join me as I explore the significance of the words we use to define, express and organise African design through a refreshed linguistic framework.

But first…

There is nothing worse than assuming that African design is one homogenous topic that the world over is trying to unpack, rediscover and contemplate and not acknowledging that the word “African” in and of itself has played a role in some of the tensions contemporary designers themselves find hard to embrace. Would they describe themselves as a designer from Africa or as an African designer? Some are happy to embrace the terms and include their distinct geographical origin, such as being an African Designer from Nigeria while others prefer strictly using their national identity as a reference to who they are, A Nigerian designer for instance. I am also well aware that every African country and region within these countries have distinct cultures and thus design objects that also can’t be simply labelled "African decor" or even "African design" as though Africa were a country.

So, for this article, I will use "African design" as an identifier of design that originates from black people born from and those who hold ancestral roots in Africa (the diaspora)

The African Design Lexicon

What is a ‘lexicon’?

A lexicon is a comprehensive and structured collection of words, phrases, terms, or vocabulary specific to a language, field of study, or subject matter. It serves as a reference or resource that provides information about the meanings, pronunciations, spellings, and sometimes other linguistic or contextual information related to the words or terms it contains.

Defining design.

The widely known definition of design is the process of conceiving and planning the creation of objects, systems, processes, or experiences to address specific needs or solve particular problems. Design involves a deliberate and thoughtful approach to combining form, function, aesthetics, and usability to achieve a desired outcome. It can encompass a wide range of fields, including but not limited to industrial design, graphic design, fashion design, interior design, architectural design, and more. Design often seeks to improve the functionality, aesthetics, and overall user experience of the objects or systems it creates.

The Tension

For decades, discussions about design have often evolved around Eurocentric perspectives inadvertently side-lining the remarkable inventions conceived, planned and executed throughout the African continent over the centuries. We see in the arts that African design inspired a whole movement in modernism, think of Picasso and his Cubist work. Beyond art, African creativity and ingenuity have contributed to global design throughout history and impacted a lot of the things we use and see (and love) even today.

However, existing terminologies tend to exoticize or marginalize African design (and other non-European designs) by attaching stereotypes or limited definitions to it. For example: the term “Ethnic pattern” is commonly used to describe surface design designed everywhere on the globe except Europe which would denote that European design is not derived from a European ethnicity but rather it is perceived as a foundational entity, studied in-depth with movements spanning centuries. Often, African design and ethnographical design deriving from Middle Eastern, Native and Latin American design sensibilities are referred to as 'arts and craft' made by artisans and not particularly seen or spoken of as design made by designers in an intellectual and sophisticated sense as defined above. Traditional or colonial terminologies inadvertently perpetuate stereotypes, often casting African design as "primitive", and "tribal." and often classifying African design as 'art and craft''

These misrepresentations undermine the sophistication and diversity of African design, reinforcing harmful biases. A new lexicon has the potential to challenge these stereotypes, promoting a more nuanced understanding that appreciates the intricate skill, artistry, and ingenuity inherent in African design traditions.

Diverse Influences and Modernization

African design is not static; it's a dynamic force that's constantly evolving. Modern African designers seamlessly blend traditional aesthetics with contemporary innovations, fusing past and present. The current terminologies often fail to capture this harmonious coexistence of different influences. By adopting a new lexicon, we open the door to articulating the various layers and dimensions that shape African design today.

Empowerment and Representation

As unpacked earlier, words hold power. The lexicon used to discuss African design plays a pivotal role in shaping perceptions, both within and outside the continent. Empowering terminology can contribute to the elevation of African designers on a global stage. A well-crafted lexicon can create a space where African designers are recognized as innovators, storytellers, and cultural ambassadors, rather than being confined to preconceived notions.

Inclusivity and Collaboration

A fresh lexicon for African design fosters a sense of inclusivity, inviting a wider audience to engage with and appreciate the continent's creative output. Additionally, it can encourage cross-cultural collaboration, where designers from different backgrounds can come together to exchange ideas and perspectives, enriching the design landscape globally.

The Linguistic Movement of the African Renaissance

Pockets of cultural observers and commentators have seen the language gap and have started the work of broadening the linguistic parameters of defining everyday objects and experiences. The African Fashion Research Institute, a fashion-driven decolonial research projects and digital platform, shared their 2023 project called “The Fold” whose "research explores ways of making as methods for decolonising design, and for creating new patterns of knowledge that acknowledge Afrocentric fashion histories' by interrogating the folds that "allow fabric to take form" The curators made an open call to their IG community to send voice notes of what a ‘fold’ is in their vernacular to create an audio-visual fashion glossary that will also aid in African fashion education.

Google Arts and Culture collaborated with Design Indaba on a project called “Colors of Africa” where 60 artists, makers and designers from the continent were approached to reframe and name colours from their unique perspectives.

Khensani Mohlatlole explores what the South African lexicon of fashion may be in light of The Costume Institutes' "In America: A lexicon of fashion" project a little over two years ago. The feature on Fashioning an African American lexicon that formed part of Lexicon highlighted the unique descriptions and experiences of textiles, manufacturing processes and raw materials from the perspectives of various African American designers.

In conclusion (but this isn’t the end)

The need for a new lexicon for African design is not merely a linguistic endeavour; it's a step toward recognizing and celebrating the diversity, complexity, and cultural significance of the creativity that comes from the African perspective. By embracing a more inclusive and culturally sensitive language, we can contribute to dismantling biases, promoting empowerment, and nurturing a global design community that respects and learns from the wealth and value that African designers and African design traditions bring. As we weave a new lexicon into the fabric of design discourse, we illuminate the vibrant threads of creativity that have historically connected and continue to connect Africa to the world.